Author Archives: Dan Perry

About Dan Perry

Dan created this blog to document his South America trip, which covered every country on the continent and lasted over two years. He currently lives in Madison, WI.

On to Puno

November 2, 2005
Day 35

After waking up and packing up all of my stuff, I said goodbye to Cusco this morning. I had been in the area for almost two weeks, so it felt good to move on.

The bus ride to Puno was really long and slow. I went during the day because I thought it would only take six hours, but it actually ended up taking eight. The bus kept moving extremely slowly, like 20 MPH down the open road. I knew we were on a slight incline, but I still didn't understand why we would be going so slowly. Then I saw a sign that listed our altitude: 4100 meters (13,451 feet). I didn't even realize they had roads that high! Cusco sits at 3300 meters (10,827 feet), so I guess the incline was a little steeper than I thought. After spending most of my day in the bus, I finally arrived in Puno.

As soon as I got into town, I found a place to stay and set up a tour of the islands of Lake Titicaca for the next two days. I will be staying in a local islander's house overnight, so it should be an interesting experience. I will continue to Copacabana, Bolivia on Saturday.

More Rest

November 1, 2005
Day 34

It's impossible to sleep here. For the last two nights, there hasn't been any room at my hostel except in the big dorms. I didn't think it would be too bad, but I didn't realize that people never sleep here. Every day, lots of people have to get up at 5:00 AM to go on the Inca Trail. This alone would be no problem except for the fact that every night, lots of people go out partying until 6:00 AM or later. This means that there is no time where everyone is sleeping, so it is always noisy here. I guess I shouldn't complain because there are million other places in town I could move to, but I really like the atmosphere here. It's a tough trade off. Luckily, tonight I can move to a room with only four beds, so I should be able to get more sleep.

This was another day spent on catching up on everything other than sleep. Among other things, I took my camera to several places to get looked at, but none of them had technicians handy, and I'm planning on leaving town tomorrow, so I will have to wait some more before it gets fixed.

I took it easy tonight and played cards with some people at my hostel. At some point tomorrow, I'm going to attempt to travel to Puno, which will be my last stop in Peru. It's hard to believe that I've been here almost five weeks already, but I guess I've also done a lot in that time. I will definitely miss Peru, but I feel like it's time to move on, and I'm excited to see Bolivia, the next country I will go to.

Rest and Catching Up

October 31, 2005
Day 33

I didn't do much today other than catch up on my blog, pictures, sleep, and personal hygiene. I had been away from civilization for six days, so it was a much needed day of rest.

I knew it was Halloween, but I didn't expect much to happen here in Peru. However, kids dressed up and asked went around asking for candy just like they do in the United States. The only difference was that they said "Halloween" instead of "trick or treat." I was told that after seeing the festivities that occur in the US on TV, people in lots of other countries started carrying on those traditions at home.

My hostel also had a big Halloween party. I wasn't going to go because I was still feeling as sick as ever and I didn't have a costume, but I still checked it out for a little bit. I wasn't sure how a backpacker could come up with a Halloween costume, but a lot of them managed. One guy covered himself in toilet paper to become a mummy. I'm sure the hostel owners loved that. Another guy made a fake handlebar mustache and that was his costume. Well, he also was wearing a t-shirt that had a map of Chile on it, but I'm not sure if it was actually part of his costume. There were also a lot of witches, devils, and even a Barney. Too bad I was constantly coughing and too run down to stay out late. A lot of people didn't get back until 7:00 AM the next day.

Unfortunately, my small camera broke, so I couldn't take any pictures. When I turn it on, the lens doesn't come out. It must have broken after my second day of the Inca Trail because I have pictures on it from that day. I'll get someone to take a look at it when I'm in the same spot for a few days, but I don't think that will happen soon.

Inca Trail Day 4

October 30, 2005
Day 32

This was the earliest morning of the trip. We had to get up at 3:45, while it was still dark. Eating breakfast was a chore, but everyone was in a good mood because they were finally going to get to see Machu Picchu.

After getting everything ready to go, we began our hike. Walking through the campground, I was surprised to see that almost every other group had already left. I thought that we had gotten up too late and would miss seeing the sanctuary before it was crowded with tourists. Then I noticed the other campers standing in line. The entrance of the last part of the trail didn't open until 5:30, and we got there at 5:15. I guess our guide actually woke us up at the right time.

We had a long two hour walk ahead of us. Everyone was in a much bigger hurry today. Previously, we only had to worry about getting to camp before dark, but today was different. The faster we walked, the sooner we would get to Machu Picchu. The trail went up and down small hills through the forest the entire way. People sometimes stopped to catch their breath, and everyone else continued past them. An every-man-for-himself attitude had surfaced.

Finally, we reached the Sun Gate, from which Machu Picchu is supposed to be visible. Our guide informed us that on the summer solstice, the sun rises behind the Sun Gate and shines directly into a window in Machu Picchu. It all seemed very interesting, but there was a problem: we couldn't see anything because of the thick fog that surrounded us. The weather had been great until that point, but I thought the fog would ruin the last and most important day of the trek.

Suddenly, the fog began to lift and something became visible in the distance. It was Machu Picchu! It became clearer and clearer for the next fifteen minutes or so until the fog was all but gone. All of the work I had done for the last four days had built up to that moment, and that's when I knew that the trek had been worthwhile.

As we began walking closer to the complex, I noticed a lot of people walking toward the Sun Gate. I knew they hadn't done the Inca Trail because they were clean-shaven and dressed in nice clothes. They must have stayed in Aguas Calientes the night before and taken the bus to Machu Picchu before anyone else could get there. I felt a little bit cheated. I had hiked over 40 KM through the mountains and learned about countless other Inca sites to get to that point, and they just showed up on a bus. I guess it was their loss. The amount of culture I experienced on the way to Machu Picchu was priceless.

When we got to the start of Machu Picchu, we took a group photo and began our tour. I was immediately surprised at how big the complex was. I had seen it in pictures, but I never realized that the pictures were shot at very wide angles. Machu Picchu is as big as a modern day city. There are so many different areas to look at, it can be overwhelming. Edwin gave us a tour of the site for two hours. I then walked around for two more hours before leaving. From the time I got to the Sun Gate, I had been looking at Machu Picchu for six hours, which seemed about right.

To leave Machu Picchu, I took a bus down a long dirt road with hairpin curves galore to Aguas Calientes. I walked around town for awhile, didn't see anything that interested me, and went to the restaurant my group agreed to meet at. Several other members of my group were there, including my guide. We chatted for a few hours before the train left town.

The train ride back to Cusco was long and slow. It was too bumpy and crowded to sleep in, so I had to sit around and do nothing for four hours. A few people on the train started taking pictures of the scenery that surrounded us, but it wasn't necessary for me because I had already walked past it all. One of the advantages of taking the Inca Trail, I guess.

When I finally made it back to Cusco, I began catching up on the news and my website. I also turned in most of my filthy clothes to be washed. I fell way behind on my blog and pictures from being gone so long, so it will take a few days to catch back up.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Inca Trail Day 3

October 29, 2005
Day 31

Today, we had to get up at 5:15. The toughest day was already behind us, but this day proved to be the longest with ten hours of hiking. I didn't really feel any better or worse in the morning. I just took some more drugs and left, realizing that my cold simply wasn't going to go away as long as I was on the Inca Trail.

The first hour of the day involved a tough climb to the Second Pass at 3950 meters. It was very foggy all morning, so there wasn't much to look at. On the way up, we did pass Runcuracay, yet another Inca site. I began to wonder how we could be taught in high school about the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans for an entire semester, yet the Incas, who had a magnificent culture, could barely even be mentioned and be lumped together with all of the other ancient cultures of the Americas. The Incas definitely don't get the attention they deserve.

Near the Second Pass, the fog began to clear a bit, so I got a good view of the lagoons that remained eerily calm on the mountainside. It wasn't too difficult to make it to the top this time, and I finally realized that I could could take in all of the wonderful scenery without having to worry about whether I'd make it to the end alive.

The next stop on the trail was the Sayaqmarka ruins. In Inca times, it was a town with windows, staircases, irrigation systems, and an intricate set of passageways. The site was also a great place to photograph. The dreary green and gray colors combined well with the ambient fog to give the entire site an almost-alive feel.

When we left the Sayaqmarka ruins, the scenery quickly changed from mountains to jungle. Once again we were walking along the river, but now, the forest dominated the area. I saw many tropical plants, including ferns and orchids, and the weather became warmer and much more humid. I started taking so many pictures, I began to fall behind the rest of the group.

Eventually, we ate lunch and forged ahead. We almost immediately stopped at Phuyupatamarka, another ancient Inca site. It had several chambers, ceremonial baths, and a large set of requisite three-foot stairs. Also visible from Phuyupatamarka was Intipata, a hillside Inca ruin.

The climb down was so steep, it became treacherous. At one point, a Swedish hiker yelled "Your friend fell!" loudly in English. Obviously, everyone who heard him became very worried because a fall off the wrong part of the trail would mean certain death. We started running up the trail, but then a bloody porter passed us and we figured out that he simply fell in some brush and quickly got back up. It was a scary moment, but luckily no major damage was done. It's crazy how the porters continue to run on the trail, even when the steps are longer than their legs. I wonder how many of them lose their lives in the name of getting the tourists' luggage to camp before the tourists themselves get there.

We still had a few hours of daylight left, so we took the long way to camp and checked out Intipata on the way. Our guide got really excited at one point and told everyone to stop moving. I thought he had spotted the elusive spectacled bear, but it turned out to be a false alarm. The only disappointment of the entire trek was that I didn't get to see any wild animals other than a few hummingbirds. Maybe a trip into the jungle is in my future.

After we got to camp, our guide had a surprise for us: there was still one more ruin we could see. Several of us walked with him to Wiñaywayna, which was possibly the most impressive ruin I had seen all day. It basically consisted of three parts: A large stepped area for growing crops, a section with several living quarters, and the Temple of the Sun. Connecting the living area with the temple was a long string of ceremonial baths. Anyone who wished to enter the temple needed to bathe himself on the way. There was almost nobody at the site, which made it even more unique.

The mood at the campsite was very festive. There was a bar with a dance floor, and hot showers were available. Wanting to get the full Inca Trail experience, I declined the shower (I didn't have any clean clothes to put on anyway). Still, it was good to see that we were getting near civilization again.

We ate our final supper together and said our formal goodbyes to the porters and cooks who had helped us along the way. The trip would not have been possible without the porters, and I probably would've had to have eaten bugs if it weren't for the cook.

That night, some people started drinking rather heavily, but I didn't want to push myself. I still wasn't feeling any better, and I wanted to make sure I was well enough to take in Machu Picchu the next day. We also had to get up at 3:45 for our last hike, so my decision to go to bed at 9:00 was actually pretty easy.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Inca Trail Day 2

October 28, 2005
Day 30

There would be no relief from the relentless barrage of early morning wake-ups. This morning we had to get up at 5:45, right after dawn. Once again, I still felt sick. I think I slept a lot, but at soon as I woke up, I started coughing. I ate breakfast, took some drugs, and hoped for the best.

As soon as we started walking, I immediately felt better. The First Pass, the highest point of the entire trip at 4200 meters above sea level, was beckoning me, and I wasn't about to turn down her offer. I figured the illness would just make the challenge a little tougher to overcome, but I wouldn't let it take away from my enjoyment of the trip.

The first five hours of today's trek were almost completely uphill, but the pace was fairly slow, so it was easy to manage. After a water break about halfway up, I became completely focused on making it to the Pass. I could see it for hours, and slowly but surely, it got closer and closer.

Finally, I made it. The First Pass was a beautiful site surrounded by mountains. I could see for miles in every direction. The best part was that it didn't rain all day, which is very rare for this section of the trail. I did a little bit of exploring, but mainly I just sat down and enjoyed the moment. After we all made it up, we took a quick photo and began our descent.

We had to walk for two hours downhill to Paqaymayu, the second campsite at 3500 meters. I was worn out and my cold was making a conspicuous return, so I just tried to make it to the camp as fast as possible. We passed by a few waterfalls, but mainly the scenery remained the same as the top of the Pass.

After I got to the campsite, I ate a quick lunch and passed out in my tent. When I woke up a few hours later, I began coughing again. It was time for supper, so I ate as much as I could and called it a night. I saved just enough energy for the hike; I didn't have anything left to socialize with at night. Going to bed at 9:00 was becoming a regular thing for me.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Inca Trail Day 1

October 27, 2005
Day 29

I was barely able to sleep all night, mostly because I was sick, but also because I was excited to start my Inca Trail trek after a month of traveling around the country. 5:00 AM was way too early to get up, but it actually wasn't very difficult considering that I was barely asleep to begin with. For a while, I wished that I could postpone my trip until I got better, but it would have been impossible. I had to book two months in advance, and I had already paid the non-refundable fee to go on the trek.

I was the last one to get picked up by the bus for the three hour ride to a town where we could get breakfast. I kept zoning in and out of sleep the entire ride. I think everyone else did, too. When we got into the town, I bought some drugs for the trip and ate breakfast. Next, we continued to KM 82, the starting point of the Inca Trail.

Luckily for me, the first day of the trek was pretty easy. We stopped every ten minutes or so either to take a break, or so Edwin, our guide, could explain part of the trail. As soon as we began walking, I started to feel better. Maybe I just needed some sunny weather and drugs to get myself going.

The first thing I noticed about the trek was that the porters were like gods. They carried all of our camping gear, including tents, cookware, food, and gas for cooking. Additionally, most of our group hired a personal porter to carry their own stuff for them. Each porter had to carry around 50 pounds of equipment down the trail. The thing is, they had to have everything set up by the time we arrived, so they literally ran up the mountain. Every few minutes, someone would yell "Porter!" and we would all move to the side and watch in amazement as he ran past us. It's definitely not a job anyone can do.

After walking past many mountains along the Urubamba river, we stopped to have lunch. It was already prepared for us by the time we got there. The food was great and we all gave our chef a round of applause. I guess Andean Life (my tour company) does meals just as well as SAS. I may have been sick, but at least I still had an appetite.

After the filling lunch, we walked for a few more hours to our campsite. Once again, everything was already set up for us by the time we got there. Everyone picked out a tent and relaxed with the remaining few hours of daylight we had left.

I heard there was a soccer game going on nearby, so I decided to check it out. It turned out that a lot of the porters were already playing, and our guide suggested that we play against them. Some of the non-American members of our group were up to the challenge and joined in. Just like normal soccer, the players kicked the ball back and forth for thirty minutes without ever scoring a goal. Still, it somehow seemed slightly more exciting than watching it on TV.

Later we had tea time and another great dinner. It gets dark at around 6:00 all year here, and considering that we were camping, there wasn't much to do without any daylight. My cold started to come back again after the temperature dropped, so I went to bed early to prepare for the long day ahead of me.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Rafting Trip Day 2

October 26, 2005
Day 28

After getting a lot of sleep in a surprisingly comfortable tent with a thick air mattress, I woke up at dawn. Tom, Lisa, and I were all sick so we basically just lounged around for a few hours before the day's rafting excursion began.

At around 10:00, the van pulled up with three new passengers from England and Portugal. As we drove to the starting point, Tom and Lisa both declared that they wouldn't be able to raft because they were too sick. I decided that I could still go, mainly because I paid for it, but I guess I figured it would be a lot of fun too.

We just had one raft and a ducky today. Luckily, the raft didn't have any holes this time. The preparation routine was the same as yesterday. Henry started in the ducky this time, and the remaining four of us took off in the raft with our guide.

The rapids seemed a lot better today. Maybe it was just the fact that the raft had air in it, but it seemed like we were going faster over the rapids. The weather was pretty cold, but we made the most of it. All four guys other than me went in the ducky for awhile (I didn't go today because I was the only one to go yesterday). Every time someone rode in the ducky, he ended up getting thrown in either by the rapids or the guide.

For the last set of rapids, we decided to make it more interesting. We each stood up on the raft and held onto each other while we went over the rapids. Our first attempt failed miserably when we all fell in the raft. However, for our second attempt, the ducky guide decided to join us in our raft. He wouldn't have been satisfied if we made it without falling, so he started shaking the entire raft and I fell in.

So, we all took a swim, we all had fun, and we all were shivering at the end. I felt OK for a few hours afterwards. We had another amazing lunch and drove back to Cusco. On the bus ride back, I started to feel sick again. I was coughing pretty badly, had a plugged nose, and a sore throat. Not a good state to be in before going trekking for four days in the mountains.

After I got back to Cusco, I had a meeting with the other people I would be going on my Inca Trail trek with. They were mostly older than me, but still seemed like a fun crowd. The only problem was that I barely had enough energy to make it through the meeting. Luckily, the instructions seemed pretty basic: bring cold-weather clothes, be ready to go at 5:30 AM, and be prepared to do a lot of hiking. No problemo.

After I got back to the hostel, I wanted to catch up on my photos and blog, but I just didn't have the energy. I said goodbye to Tom and Henry, who will be going to Puno in the morning, and Lisa, who I should see again after I get back from the Inca Trail, and crashed, wondering how I would pull of the Inca Trail trek in my current condition.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Rafting Trip Day 1

October 25, 2005
Day 27

Tom, Henry, Lisa, and I got up early today and boarded a bus to go to the Urubamba river for our two-day rafting excursion. Another group of four people who had chosen to go for only one day went along with us. After riding the bus for an hour or so, we arrived at our campsite. It was a quiet place on a little lake near a small town. We joked that the lake was where we were going to begin our trip. It turned out that we weren't that far off.

When we booked the two-day trip, we had all pictured going down good rapids the first day and even better ones the second. However, the tour agency saw things differently. We were told that the people doing the one-day trip would get to do class 2 and 3 rapids while we would start our first day on the class 1 rapids further down the river. What a horrible plan! It's not like they had any more experience than us, and they would get to do a better trip than us simply because they were paying for one less day. After we did some complaining, the tour guides agreed that we didn't need to sit through three hours of training on class 1 rapids and allowed us to do the same run as the other group. The only downside would be that we would have to go down the same section of river for day two. No big deal.

After settling our agreement, we dropped off our stuff at the campsite and got back in the bus to go up the river. At the starting point, we put on our wet suits while the guides pumped up the rafts and the locals across the river laughed at us. After about thirty minutes of preparation, we were ready to go. The other group got in their raft and left. Next, it was our turn.

After putting our raft in the water, we heard a strange bubbling noise. "Maybe it's normal," I thought. No dice. There was a hole in the raft. We flipped the raft over and began pumping more air into it to try to figure out where the hole was. Meanwhile, one of the guides ran away in a frenzy and returned a few minutes later.

Ten minutes after the guide got back, a very fat, sweaty man lurched over the bridge in our direction. I think they left at the same time. The fat man had the perfect solution for a hole in a raft: a wrench wrapped with duct tape.

The guide began unraveling the tape from the wrench and applying it to the hole. Slowly but surely, the hole was plugged. However, after trying to pump air into the raft again, we noticed that there was another leak. It was obviously a high quality raft crafted of the finest material available.

The fat man was getting visibly flustered with the whole ordeal. He kept complaining that the guide was wasting all of his duct tape. Sure enough, the wrench was getting low, but I though he was doing a good job of rationing it. The next thing I knew, the other guide came over and the shit really hit the fan. The guide took about a foot of tape and covered the entire seam of the raft with it. The fat man was drowning in his own sweat by this point. When the guide grabbed some more tape and accidentally folded it over itself, rendering it useless, the fat man's gut popped out from under his shirt. I thought he was going to have a heart attack. How could a man who was obviously very liberal with food be so conservative with material goods?

After thirty minutes of testing, patching, and sweating, the raft appeared to be fixed. We flipped it over and took off, holes be damned. The first few minutes of the trip were spent on learning the commands of the guide, who was driving the raft. "Back," "forward," and "stop" were basically all we needed to know. Then we hit the rapids.

A lot of the rapids were fun, but not too extreme. I would guess that we hit maybe one or two class 3's the entire time. It was the river's low season, I was told. We did make it more interesting, though. There was a lot of pushing of others into the water, and the guide was constantly telling funny stories. A few times we tried to navigate the tough rapids with precision, but we ended up looking more like a pinball machine than a fine-oiled machine the way we bounced off the rocks. Maybe it was a good thing the river wasn't higher.

For the last thirty minutes of the trip, I went into the ducky, a small kayak-like raft that could only hold two people. Up till that point, another guide had been riding in it in case anything went wrong with our raft. The ducky required a lot more effort on my part, but it was also a lot more fun than the raft. I got soaking wet going through every rapid, and I almost fell out a few times.

When we finished the trip, we got changed and packed up our gear. We were told that we would be able to take the raft without any holes in it for the second day. Next, we headed back to the campsite for lunch.

When we got to campsite, the tents, including the eating tent, were already set up, and our amazing lunch was soon served. We each got soup, salad, and a large main course, followed by dessert and a large bottle of Coke. I couldn't believe how much food there was for a camping trip. Then I was informed that at SAS (the company we booked through), all meals were like this. I could get used to this pretty easily. Unfortunately for the other rafting group, they had to leave when they were done eating.

After lunch, a bunch of local kids began playing soccer and volleyball near us. We joined them for a bit, but then I remembered my frisbee. Henry already knew how to throw, so I began throwing around with him. Then the kids joined in. Next, the rest of our group wanted to play. I suggested a game of "hot box," an Ultimate game you can play with limited numbers. The game was a major success, attracting lots of attention from the kids. Maybe I'll start a trend here.

Later, we took a walk into town for some supplies and returned to eat supper. Again, it was great. The only problem was that everyone but Henry started to feel sick. It seemed that we had too much fun going into the river earlier in the day. We played some cards and went to bed early, hoping to feel better in the morning.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Preparing for a Long Week

October 24, 2005
Day 26

To start the day today, I got together with Tom, Henry, and Lisa to plan our rafting trip. We decided to do a two day trip down the Urubamba river. We will camp overnight after day 1, so it should be a good time. The only problem is that I won't have any free time before my Inca Trail trek begins, so I will basically be away from civilization for six days.

After buying the tickets, we checked out the Inca Museum, which is supposed to be the best museum in town. Of course, being a good museum, it wasn't included in my tourism ticket, so I had to pay another entrance fee. The museum was really great, but it didn't get to the Inca culture until the very end, so its name was a bit misleading. Still, all of the artifacts from the various cultures that existed in Peru over 500 years ago were very interesting. Of course, they didn't let me take any pictures, so you'll have to take my word for it.

After seeing the museum, we decided to go to a movie. Batman Begins looked good, so off we went. I soon realized that the movie was in fact being played in a bar, not a movie theater. This was a good thing because it was free, but it also kind of sucked because the sound system was horrible. There was so much bass that it was almost impossible to make out what the people were saying. I got more from reading the Spanish subtitles than listening to the movie. Anyway, I still thought it was pretty good, but maybe I'll have to watch it again when I get home.

After the movie, I went back to the hostel to try and get some sleep in preparation for my upcoming excursions.