Author Archives: Dan Perry

About Dan Perry

Dan created this blog to document his South America trip, which covered every country on the continent and lasted over two years. He currently lives in Madison, WI.

Gubeikou Part 2, The Hutong Edition

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of people hiking on the wall.

Our hike on the Gubeikou Great Wall.

Last week, the friendly folks at The Hutong invited me to return to Gubeikou (古北口, or “Ancient North Pass”), a section of the Great Wall of China about two hours northwest of Beijing. (Click here for photos from my first trip.)

I was really looking forward to getting outside and learning more about the history of this section. Unfortunately, when the day finally came, the sky was overcast, and it was cold and rainy. I thought about staying at home, but eventually decided to go. And I was really glad I did. Jeremiah and Simon, the trip's leaders, brought a wealth of knowledge of this region's history and natural setting. They did a great job of explaining the circumstances that led to the wall's construction in the 16th century. When I went to Gubeikou without a guide, I simply hiked on the wall. But this time, I could really envision Manchu armies invading from the north, and Chinese troops taking positions to defend their homeland.

If you're looking for a Great Wall experience that's more challenging than sitting in a cable car, but not too strenuous or dangerous, then this trip is for you.

The Hutong is a cultural exchange center based in Beijing. They offer cooking classes, walking tours of the city, and trips that go further afield. For more info, you can check out The Hutong's Website.

Here are a few photos from this trip:

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of cannon, with Hutong employees.

Simon points out the geography of Gubeikou. A river to our west acts as a natural barrier against invasion.

Gubeikou Great Wall.

Yup, that's the Great Wall.

Gubeikou Great Wall – Cross-section of the wall.

Here you can see the outer section of the wall, completed in 1567. Invading armies could defeat the wall by knocking this section out from its foundation.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of people walking on top of the wall.

We begin our walk along the Gubeikou Great Wall.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of Hutong group.

The group from The Hutong.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of crumbling wall.

Here you can see where the “new” addition (450 years old) has crumbled away.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of Simon pointing.

Simon points out a cross-section of the wall.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of cross-section.

Here you can see the multiple layers of bricks that were used to reinforce the sides of the wall, along with the sediment in the middle.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of snake skin.

Simon found this snake skin. He has seen more snakes on this section than anywhere else on the wall.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of hole in the wall.

In the 20th century, Chinese soldiers made these holes in the wall to act as turrets, from which they could snipe Japanese troops invading from the north.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of deomonstration of sniping.

Here's a demonstration of how the troops used these holes. They would've gotten a great view of the valley below.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of guard tower.

One of the guard towers.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of wall from the vantage point of a guard tower.

Looking over the wall from inside a guard tower.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of brick carving.

If you look carefully, you'll find bricks like this one, carved with the name of the guard tower's creator, as well as the date it was created.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of hole.

Looking straight up through the guard tower.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of panoramic view.

Some of the guard towers offer you a panoramic view of the beautiful mountainous landscape.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of hiking on the wall.

Nearing the end of our hike.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of precarious wall.

The downside of choosing not to restore this section is that it is slowly falling apart. This bit, for example, is hanging by a thread.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of evergreen trees.

The wall is quite tall in some places. And no guardrails here.

Gubeikou Great Wall - Picture of hikers.

This is a fairly easy hike, more adventurous than taking the cable car up to Mutianyu, but not as difficult as Jiankou. And very few tourists come here.


Want more photos? Click for more photos from this trip to Gubeikou.

AtW #37: Never Lose Your Passport!

Never lose your passport: Picture of Dan and Moisés.

Never Lose Your Passport!

My guest today is Moisés Santiago. We touched on a variety of topics, including being a teacher in China, spaying your cat (not for the faint of heart), staying calm in stressful situations, and the importance of maintaining possession of your passport while traveling abroad. It turns out that both of us have had the pleasure of losing our passport, though his experience had significantly worse consequences than mine.

Moisés was an awesome guest and I thoroughly enjoyed our conversation. Let's get right to it:

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

Show Notes:

  • It has been a couple of years since China ended its one-child policy. Al Jazeera recently posted this update on the results so far. (Hint: more babies)
  • Kitten thinks of nothing but murder
  • I talked about how hard it is to figure out the captcha system when buying train tickets in China. This article talks about just that.
  • Moisés and I talked about the ridiculous rule that, when changing planes in the USA, you need permission to enter the country. In the example I used, if you're from Brazil and want to vacation in Spain, nearly every flight will get routed through either Miami or Atlanta. You're only going to spend a couple hours in the airport, yet you need to go through the entire interview process to obtain a US visa. I don't know of any other country that has this rule. For example, last year I flew from Beijing to Berlin, via Moscow. I didn't have a visa to enter Russia, yet I could transfer at the airport, no problem. And Russia is normally thought of as a very strict country with its immigration rules. This Stack Exchange forum explains the issue in more detail.
  • The TV show I couldn't remember the name of is Out of this World.

This is where I lost my passport in Tasmania:

Never lose your passport: Picture of beach.

Moisés lives in a hutong in Beijing. Here are some of my photos from Beijing's hutongs:

Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong. Never lose your passport: Picture of hutong.

Want more? Click for more of my photos from Beijing.

Around the World #36: Mirco Tranchina

Picture of Mirco and Dan.

Mirco and Dan, no lyin'.

Mirco Tranchina has lived in China for several years. Since coming here, he has become fluent in Chinese, and he is now on a TV show called Informal Talks. He also has a full-time job, and he's finishing his master's degree. Fun fact: So far, Mirco has lived in ten different apartments in Beijing. Luckily, he was able to take some time out of his busy schedule to record this podcast. We had an awesome conversation; I hope you enjoy it.

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

Show Notes:

  • Check out this video of flooding in Beijing:
  • We talked about the new (and giant) wave of bicycle-sharing companies in China. The revolutionary aspect of these bicycles is that you don't need to return them to a docking station. You can leave them anywhere (within reason).
  • The show Mirco is on is called Informal Talks. Here is the latest episode. Watching it will also give you an idea of what TV is like in China (Think “A.D.D.”).
  • Follow this link for a list (in Chinese) of every episode of the latest season.
  • This article talks about live streaming in China. The technology is going mainstream. It's not just girls seductively eating bananas anymore.
  • Here is how “yada yada yada” works, according to Seinfeld:

Hiking on the Gubeikou Great Wall

Gubeikou: Picture of wall.

Gubeikou is a few hours from Beijing.

Having lived in Beijing for the last three years, Katie and I have visited the Great Wall many times. Contrary to popular belief, the Great Wall isn't one continuous wall. There are many sections; some have eroded to almost nothing, others remain relatively intact, and still others that have been completely restored to their former glory. My favorite sections (as you probably guessed) are un-restored, yet still hike-able.

Gubeikou (古北口) fits the bill perfectly. It's one of the easier sections to hike, it typically draws few tourists, and the surrounding landscape is spectacular. It's only a few short hours from Beijing, so if the Great Wall is on your travel radar, Gubeikou is a great section to consider visiting.

Here are some photos I took on a springtime hike to Gubeikou with my wife Katie and our friends John and Courtney:

Gubeikou: Picture of village.

We stayed in a village at the base of the wall.

Gubeikou: Picture of train.

The train came very close to the wall.

Gubeikou: Picture of wall.

A lot of this section of the wall is nothing but a trail, nowadays.

Gubeikou: Picture of Katie and Dan.

A “Great” day for hiking.

Gubeikou: Picture of Katie on the Great Wall. Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall. Gubeikou: Picture of steep steps on the Great Wall.

A long section of steps leading up to a tower.

Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall. Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall.

There are mountains in the distance.

Gubeikou: Picture of Katie pointing.

Which way to the Great Wall?

Gubeikou: Picture of abandoned house.

This abandoned house was right next to the wall. Check out those old newspapers on the walls.

Gubeikou: Picture of terraces.

Many of the hills in the area were terraced.

Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall landscape. Gubeikou: Picture of Jingshanling.

Now entering the Jingshanling section.

Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall.

The wall snakes into the distance.

Gubeikou: Picture of guard tower.

The view from a guard tower.

Gubeikou: Picture of John and Courtney.

John and Courtney.

Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall. Gubeikou: Picture of Great Wall.

More photos from the Gubeikou Great Wall

If you want more info about Gubeikou, or anywhere else in China, feel free to contact me.

Around the World #35: Erin and Connor

Erin and Connor: Erin and Connor: Picture of Erin Draycott, Connor Grill and Dan Pery.

Erin and Connor: Bath robes and whiskey, oh yeah!

My guests today are Erin Draycott and Connor Grill. They have both been living in Beijing for several years. I sat with Erin and Connor on the roof of their hutong apartment for a conversation about travel. We touched on many subjects, including their recent trip to Israel.

Let's listen to my podcast with Erin and Connor:

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

* * *

Show Notes:

  • Connor briefly talked about WWOOFing. This stands for “Willing Workers on Organic Farms.” Their website has more info.
  • I've never seen the Oscar Mayer Weinermobile in Beijing, but this clown duck guy comes pretty close. Just don't rear-end him or he'll be sad.

    Erin and Connor: Erin and Connor: Picture of a clown on his clown car getting rear-ended by a van in Beijing, China.

    A sad clown.

  • According to Wikipedia, the urban population of New York City is 8.5 million, whereas Harbin has 5.2 million, though it's hard to get an apples-to-big-apples comparison with city populations.
  • During the podcast, I talked about how Ixonia got its name. Here is the story.
  • Connor mentioned a quote from It's a Wonderful Life: All you can take with you is that which you've given away.
  • One of Connor's favorite books is Infinite Jest by David Foster Wallace. Follow the link for more info.
  • Banksy is a famous street artist. Here is his website. Connor and Erin saw a lot of his artwork on the wall in Palestine.
  • If you feel like being depressed, you can read more about the 2014 Israel-Gaza Conflict.
  • Here is how public school kids warm up before class in China:
  • Erin mentioned nightmares and night terrors. Here is an article describing the difference.
  • We talked ever-so-briefly about Jonestown in Guyana. Here is the fascinating story of this place.
  • Mosquitoes are responsible for more human deaths than any other animal, including other humans. This article from Wired has more info and a historical timeline.
  • Mefloquine (AKA Larium) is the drug I took to prevent malaria. Here is one of the reviews of this drug from drugs.com: “I was prescribed to take 6 pills at once for treatment of malaria. Can't sleep, I keep having hallucinations when I close my eyes and can't focus when my eyes are open.” Yay malaria pills!
  • Hans Rosling has helped change my mind about the world and our future. In the show, I mentioned that while some places are better off than others, there has never been a better time to be alive than now. Watch this video and tell me if you disagree:
  • Gravity drops off with the square of the distance, which is part of the inverse square law. I accidentally said some gibberish instead of properly referencing this law. Around the World with Dan Perry regrets this error.
* * *

Here are some of Connor and Erin's photos from Israel. Thanks for providing them!

Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel. Erin and Connor: Picture of Israel.
* * *

Here are a few of my photos from Harbin's Ice Festival:

Erin and Connor: Picture of Harbin Ice Festival.

The giant ice sculptures in Harbin, China.

Erin and Connor: Picture of icy Kremlin in Harbin, China.

The silhouetted icy Kremlin.

Erin and Connor: Picture of Harbin ice slide.

An ice slide.

Erin and Connor: Picture of Harbin ice temple.

An ice temple.

More photos from Harbin's Ice Festival

* * *

And this is the view you'll get if you go to the top of Jing Shan Park in Beijing on a clear day:

Erin and Connor: Picture of Forbidden City from Jingshan Park in Beijing, China.

Looking south, you get a great view of the Forbidden City.

Erin and Connor: Picture of a western view of Beijing, China from Jingshan park.

Looking west.

Erin and Connor: Picture of Dan and Katie looking north from Jingshan Park in Beijing, China.

Looking north, you can see more temples. The Olympic Park is far in the distance.

Around the World #34: Li Song Mei

Li Song Mei: Picture of Dan Perry and Li Song Mei.

With my guest, Li Song Mei.

My guest today is Li Song Mei. I met her through Arthur, her former teacher, who was on episodes 30 and 31 of the podcast. Li Song Mei is from a small village in Guizhou Province, China. She's currently in grad school in Beijing.

Li Song Mei is a member of the Hmong (Miao) ethnic minority group. We discussed a lot about her culture, including the largest traditional Hmong festivals. You can read more about the Sister's Rice Festival in the show notes below.

Let's listen to the show, and don't forget to subscribe on iTunes to get regular updates:

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

Show notes:

  • There are around five million ethnic Hmong people in the world, three million of whom are in China.
  • Hmong New Year traditionally takes place at the end of the harvest season, which can be any time from October to December. It's a time for family gatherings, ancestral worship and celebrating the year to come.
  • Li Song Mei mentioned the “lusheng” during the podcast. This is a musical instrument made from multiple bamboo pipes. Here's a short video of one being played:
  • Li Song Mei also talked about the significance of the butterfly in Hmong culture. This page has more information about the butterfly, as well as several other Hmong mythological creatures.
  • This article talks about the last native speakers of several languages. It's always sad to read about someone who has no one to talk with in their native tongue.
  • Microsoft's campus is indeed located in Redmond, Washington, 16 miles east of Seattle.
  • I mentioned my book, 1000 Days Between. You can read about it on Amazon or on this website.
  • Fenghuang is an ancient water town in southern China. You can read more about it, and see some amazing photos here.
  • I recently visited the Xuan Kong Hanging Monsatery near Datong. Here are a few of my photos: Li Song Mei: Li Song Mei: Picture of Xuan Kong Hanging Monsatery. Li Song Mei: Picture of Xuan Kong Hanging Monsatery. Li Song Mei: Picture of Xuan Kong Hanging Monsatery.

    Click here for more of my photos from the monastery.

Finally, Li Song Mei provided the following photos and description of the Hmong rice festival. Thanks!

Li Song Mei: Picture of parade. Li Song Mei: Picture of parade. Li Song Mei: Picture of parade.

The Sister's Rice Festival is celebrated by the Miao (Hmong) ethnic people in southwestern China's Guizhou province, especially in the Taijiang and Jianhe counties along the banks of the Qingshui River. It is regarded as the oldest Asian Valentine's Day.

Li Song Mei: Picture of parade. Li Song Mei: Picture of parade. Li Song Mei: Picture of parade. Li Song Mei: Picture of parade.

A few days before the festival, Miao (Hmong) girls collect special wild flowers and leaves in the mountains to produce natural colors to dye the glutinous rice, known as "sister's rice.” The rice is dyed blue, pink, yellow, and white to represent spring, summer, autumn and winter respectively.

Li Song Mei: Picture of Li Song Mei.

Li Song Mei

Li Song Mei: Picture of food. Li Song Mei: Picture of village.
Li Song Mei: Picture of rice.

Sticky rice.

At festival time, thousands of Miao (Hmong) girls and women dressed up in their spectacular embroidered clothes and silver ornamentations in a parade. Bachelorette young Miao women dressed up in their finest beautiful embroidered clothing with silver torque, headdresses with phoenix crown and hair pins.

Li Song Mei: Picture of outfits. Li Song Mei: Picture of embroidered outfits.
Li Song Mei: Picture of Li Song Mei.

Li Song Mei in traditional clothes.

Li Song Mei: Picture of embroidery.

When young men arrive, they begin to single out the women they hope to marry someday and begin to sing for them. The young women respond to their songs by giving them a drink of rice wine and the sister's rice wrapped in handkerchiefs with different symbols on them.

Li Song Mei: Picture of embroidery. Li Song Mei: Picture of celebration circle.
Li Song Mei: Picture of silver outfits.

The long dinner table.

Li Song Mei: Picture of girl in traditional outfits.

A pair of red chopsticks means "I love you too"; one chopstick means, "no, thank you"; a garlic or red chili indicates a flat refusal; and pine needles indicate that the boy should present silks and colorful threads and that she will wait for him. There are also many other activities, including bullfighting, horse racing, traditional Miao performances and Lusheng music.

Li Song Mei: Picture of embroidery. Li Song Mei: Picture of girls in silver. Li Song Mei: Picture of baskets.

Around the World #33: Morgan McKinnon

Morgan: Picture of Dan and Morgan.

Morgan and I are super happy to be with our plant.

My guest today is Morgan McKinnon. She has been living in Beijing for over four years. We talked a lot about expectations versus reality in moving to China, and some of the great and not-so-great aspects of living here. One of Morgan's many messages is that you have to keep challenging yourself. Following her own advice, she'll move to Morocco next school year, where she'll start the next chapter of her life.

I hope you enjoy my conversation with Morgan McKinnon:

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

Morgan has set up a Go Fund Me page to help raise funds for her upcoming surgery. If you are interested in donating, click here.

Show notes:

  • This frugal blogger met a couple who spent $30,000 eating at restaurants last year. He tells their story in the article.
  • Here is how your FICO credit score is calculated. They give a high-level overview, but the nitty gritty details remain a mystery.
  • Here's an article with pictures of men baring their bellies in Beijing.
  • There are many websites dedicated to showing pictures of funny English signs in China. Here is one of them. I would've found these signs a lot more funny before I moved to China. But now, not so much. I can read a bit of Chinese, so I can see how most of the bad translations happened. And I see these signs so often, they've become normal. “Fuck the duck until exploded” is among the many “gems” on this site that are now just “meh” to me.
  • The “fatberg” problem we talked about is worse than I thought. It turns out whole world's sewers are in trouble.
  • If you can't read Chinese, then Ctrip is arguably the easiest way to book train tickets in China. Check out the new unofficial jingle Morgan created for them during the show!
  • Or if you're feeling brave and want the cheapest price, you can try the official website for booking tickets, 12306. Only available in Chinese.
  • Here's how to do a hook turn in Melbourne:

Here are some of my pics from Beijing:

Morgan: Picture of Jing Shan Park in Beijing, China.

You can get a good view of the city from Jing Shan Park.

Morgan: Picture of scorpions and seahorses for sale in Beijing, China.

Scorpions and seahorses, a yummy snack.

Morgan: Picture of a man riding a rickshaw through a Beijing hutong.

Hutongs are one of the highlights of the city.

Morgan: Picture of kids playing in Bada hutong, Beijing, China.

Bada hutong.

Click for more photos from Beijing

And here are some pics from camping on the Great Wall. We'll probably get back to the Wall this spring.

Morgan: Picture of camping on the Great Wall of China. Morgan: Picture of camping on the Great Wall of China. Morgan: Picture of camping on the Great Wall of China. Morgan: Picture of camping on the Great Wall of China.

Finally here some more of my Great Wall photos

Biking around Beautiful Erhai Lake

Erhai Lake: Picture of Katie.

Katie, with our bikes.

At the end of our disastrous bike trip through Yunnan (read more about it here), Katie and I had one last day to spend around Dali's old town. We decided to rent a bike and pedal around nearby Erhai (洱海) Lake. Shaped like an ear (“Erhai” means “ear-shaped sea”) and at 1,972 meters (6,470 feet) above sea level, the lake is the second-largest highland lake in all of China.

We had a great day of riding along the shore, through many crowded towns full of cars trying to squeeze through narrow roads. Along the way we ate lake fish for lunch and found an interesting dragon festival in a small village. The next day we rode a train for seven hours to the big city of Kunming, from which Katie flew back to Beijing and I took another train for 33 hours. Just 'cuz.

The best part of our day at Erhai Lake: no broken chains. Here are some photos:

Erhai Lake: Picture of workers and mountains.

There were many fields like this one, with ubiquitous mountains in the background.

Erhai Lake: Picture of Katie next to her bike.

Katie.

Erhai Lake: Picture of wedding photography at Erhai Lake.

The lake is a popular place for wedding photography.

Erhai Lake: Picture of dragon performers.

This group was preparing for a performance.

Erhai Lake: Picture of dragon dancer.

The dragon dance begins.

Erhai Lake: Picture of curious girl.

One of the young performers.

Erhai Lake: Picture of tea drinker.

Tea time.

Erhai Lake: Picture of dancer. Erhai Lake: Picture of onlooker.

An onlooker.

Picture of dragon dancer. Picture of Katie and old radio guy.

This guy was having a fun time with his radio.

Picture of temple.

We found this temple along the way.

Picture of field.

A field at sunset.

Picture of Katie on her bike.

On our way back to Dali.

Picture of rapeseed field.

A rapeseed field.

More photos from our Erhai Lake trip

Around the World #32: What Do You Call Armor That Breaks? Chain Fail!

Chain Fail: Picture of Katie and Dan with their bicycles.

About to start our bike trip.

In this episode of the podcast, I talk about my bicycle trip with Katie through Yunnan Province in China. We bought folding bikes for the Chinese New Year, loaded them with gear and took off for a two-week adventure. At least that was the plan.

While the trip was basically a disaster, we did learn some valuable lessons (or at least some of our previously-learned valuable lessons were reinforced):

Around the World #31: Arthur and Xiao Ni

Picture of Dan, Arthur and Xiao Ni in Shaxi, China.

Happy Year of the Rooster, from Dan, Arthur, and Xiao Ni.

This is my continued discussion with Arthur and Xiao Ni. (To listen to my first podcast with them, click here.) Xiao Ni continued to impress me with her stories. Unfortunately, as she sojourned through Turkey and Lebanon, she was plagued by misfortune and people of ill repute. Maybe the theme for this show should be “That which does not kill you makes you stronger.”

If you like this show, I'd really appreciate it if you left a review on iTunes or Stitcher. This is a low-budget podcast with no advertising; reviews can be super helpful in spreading the word. Thanks for your support!

Now, let's listen to the podcast:

Download this Episode (right-click and choose “save as”)

Show notes:

  • In English, we have one word for the children of your parents' siblings: Cousin. But in Chinese, they have many words, depending on which side of the family this cousin is on, whether they are male or female, and whether they are the children of your parents' older or younger siblings. Confused yet? We're just getting started! Here are some of the words for “cousin” in Chinese: 表弟 and 表哥 and 表姐 and 表妹 and 堂弟 and 堂哥 and 堂姐 and 堂妹. On top of that, if a Chinese person refers to their “brother” or “sister” in English, they often mean their cousin or their close friend.
  • Traditional Chinese Medicine has five elements, one of which is fire. Since moving to China, I've heard a few people talk about “too much heat.” I still don't fully understand this, but here is an explanation to get you started.
  • Another ancient Chinese concept is that of Yin and Yang, the opposing forces which are also complimentary. Here is some more info.
  • Xiao Ni used the ubiquitous Airbnb during her trip. I haven't used this service yet, but I have been using Couchsurfing since 2005. I occassionally host people in Beijing. Here is my profile. (You must be logged in to view it.)
  • I mentioned Palmyra, thinking that the ruins were in Lebanon. They actually were in Syria. And I use were instead of are because ISIS destroyed them. This is tragic.