Author Archives: Dan Perry

About Dan Perry

Dan created this blog to document his South America trip, which covered every country on the continent and lasted over two years. He currently lives in Madison, WI.

A Five-Star Ride to Ponta Negra

March 7, 2007
Day 525

Picture of houses.

Houses at Ponta Negra.

I got on a local bus this morning to go to Ponta Negra, which is a newer part of Natal that is quickly developing with resorts. On the way there, I passed hotel after five-star hotel along the coast. Each of the hotels had their own private beach, security, restaurants, and bars so the people staying there would never have to leave. No wonder Natal is becoming so popular among the European jet set crowd.

The main beach on Ponta Negra had a huge sand dune called Morro da Careca. There were signs all around it in multiple languages warning all visitors that the dune is under constant surveillance by undercover police officers, and if they attempt to climb the dune, they will end up in jail. Supposedly this protection is in place because the dune is slowly decaying, as is the nature of sand dunes, but I found it strange that so much attention was being given to it while nothing was being done about the muggings and car jackings I constantly heard about. I wondered how many foreigners Brazil has driven insane with these ridiculous policies that lack any logic whatsoever.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Another Brazilian Fortress

March 6, 2007
Day 524

I got into Natal early this morning tired and frustrated that all I had was a terribly-drawn Lonely Planet map of the very center of the city. The bus stations in Brazil are inevitably located outside the downtown area, and although Brazilians try as much as they can to help, they usually have no idea how to deal with a tourist who doesn't speak much of their language. For example, when I ask how to get downtown they'll start talking about landmarks that I've never heard of. I have to explain that while they have lived here all their lives, I've only been here for five minutes. Eventually, they always start asking me the same questions: Where are you from? First time in Brazil? How long are you here for? Are you traveling alone?, etc. I don't normally mind this type of small talk, but when it's 5:30 AM and I barely slept last night and I'm in a strange city carrying a fifty-five-pound backpack with everything I own in it and have no idea where I'm going or where I'm going to stay or what I'm going to do when I get there, I just want some good, simple directions.

After much confusion, I hopped on a bus, still not quite sure where it would take me. I when I saw the ocean thirty minutes later, I figured I'd had enough and got off. I walked around a bit more and discovered that I had landed more or less where I wanted to, found a cheap hotel right next to the ocean, and rewarded myself with a nice, long nap.
Later in the day I discovered that the city's main attraction (besides its beaches) was the old fort. Construction began on the Forte dos Reis Magos on January 6, 1598, the "Day of the Three Wise Men," which is how the fort got its name. It was built on top of the reefs, which meant that construction could only take place at low tide. For this reason, the fortress took thirty years to build. It's main purpose was to keep out invaders, but this failed miserably in 1633 when the Dutch took over. A few decades later the Portuguese took it back for good.

Bus after bus full of tourists passed me as I walked to the fortress, which was a lot further away than it looked due to its large size. The surrounding beach was quite nice, the fortress was sturdy as I expected it to be, and the lady outside even sold me a bottle of water for the normal price after attempting the traditional tourist markup of about 50%. Ah yes, my first day in Natal was a success.

Questions Answered Part VI

Thanks James and Michele for your questions. I'll answer them as best I can.

1. Where are you heading to after South America?

Here are my plans for the near future, in brief:
After Brazil, I plan to ride the "death train" across the pantanal and into Santa Cruz, Bolivia. I know I've been to Bolivia multiple times already, but there's still some more adventurous stuff I want to do there. Yes, Bolivia is that great of a place to visit.

When I'm done with Bolivia, I'll head past Lake Titicaca and into Peru for the fourth time (Peru is another great country to visit). There's a couple highlights there that I still haven't gotten a chance to do (most notably the Huayhuash Circuit).

Next, I'll go north to Ecuador, where I only spent a week last time around. During my time there, I plan to go to the Galapagos Islands. When I get back to the mainland, I'll cross through Colombia and Venezuela and go all the way down to Angel Falls, which will complete a near circle of most of the continent that I started when I went to Roraima in Venezuela last November.

After that I will probably jump over to Cartagena, Colombia and get a boat around the Darien Gap and into Panama. From there, I'm just a hop, skip, and a jump (through eight countries) from the US!
I don't really know how long all of this will take, but I almost certainly won't be back in the US until 2008. Of course, these are just plans. Who knows, maybe I'll end up on a yacht to some remote Pacific island. After this trip, I don't have any major plans other than to get a job and start saving money again.

2. I'm very interested in traveling and want to do pretty much exactly what your doing. How do you even start about doing this?

For starters you need money. I'm sure you're quite young since you're in high school, which is a good thing in this case because you have lots of time. I know it sounds way too simple, but the key to saving money is to spend less than you make. When I graduated from college I had almost nothing, but soon I got a job that paid good money. Saving was no problem for me because my lifestyle was simple so I didn't spend much. When I thought I had enough money to take a few years off, I quit.

If you want to go to college, you'll probably have to put off traveling for awhile (unless you study abroad - an excellent option), but you should be rewarded when you graduate with a higher-paying job than you would have had if you didn't go. Either way, eventually you'll have a job and will be able to start saving.

Your friends will be in the same situation as you, but they'll probably start buying big houses, fancy cars, expensive clothing, etc, but if long-term travel is really your goal, you shouldn't do any of this (one possible exception is buying a house - maybe). Don't go into debt, start putting aside whatever money you can, and eventually you'll have enough to go. While you're doing this, doing some research will help keep you motivated to save.

3. Did you just buy a ticket, fly down there, and that was that?

Pretty much, yes. But looking back, I wish I would've done a little more research on some specific destinations. For the most part, I got my timing right by hitting Patagonia in the summer, but since then I've done some major backtracking that has cost me time and money. The reason I didn't do any research was because I wanted to be spontaneous, but I guess there has to be a balance between spontaneity and knowing where you're going. You should at least try to get to your destinations at the right seasons.

The good thing is that if you don't know much about where you're going until you get there, you'll probably meet a lot of people who will give you good info once you get started. Everywhere I go, the locals and other backpackers tell me where they've been and what's good to see and do there. This is a better source of knowledge than any book can give you.

4. I'm very interested in Africa-do you suggest that to be a good place to travel around?

I think anywhere is a good place to travel around. I haven't been to Africa, but I've met a lot of people who have gone there and enjoyed it. Many people rave about countries like South Africa, Madagascar, Kenya, Morocco, Tunisia, and Egypt just to name a few. I recently met a guy from Gabon and his surfing photos looked amazing. It will be a good idea to learn some French if you want to go there. French is widely spoken in 29 countries in Africa.

A lot of people will tell you that Africa is too dangerous, and of course there are some countries that are so war-torn you definitely shouldn't visit them (Sudan, for example). The problem I have with taking other peoples' advice about visiting another country is that in most cases, that person has never actually been there. Almost everyone at home told me South America was dangerous, yet most of those people have never even left the US. Most of the places I've visited have been very safe, and even the more dangerous ones can be safe as long as you use your head. To figure out where exactly you want to go in Africa (after all, the continent has over fifty countries), I'd start reading travel books and web sites based on African travel.

Another option if you really want to go to Africa but don't have money is to join the Peace Corps. It's a big commitment, but I've met many workers who have enjoyed it. And after all, Africa probably needs more help than any other region of the world.

Email me if you have more questions. Considering the amount of time I've spent traveling, I obviously think it's a good thing, and am willing to help you reach your travel goals as well.

Sunrise in Canoa Quebrada

March 5, 2007
Day 523

Picture of boat.

A fishing boat.

Somehow I managed to drag myself out of bed for sunrise this morning. I guess I just convinced myself that I'd be able to sleep all day when it was too hot to go outside anyway. The sun came up early though: 5:30 AM. There's no daylight savings in this part of the country, and it is almost as far east as you can go in South America (this part of Brazil is actually closer to Africa than the other side of the country), so the sun rises and sets early year-round here. I passed a few of the partygoers from last night on their way back to their hotels after being scared by the glow of dawn. Too bad for them because they missed a spectacular sunrise.

I had to spend most of my afternoon sleeping/waiting because the bus didn't leave for natal until 11:00 PM. The bus there takes six hours, which is about the worst amount of time possible because it's too long for me to want to do in the day but too short to get enough sleep at night. On top of that, I had to wait an extra 2.5 hours because the last van to Aracati, the small town next to Canoa Quebrada, left at 8:30. By the time the bus showed up, I was already totally exhausted.

A Brazilian Luau

March 4, 2007
Day 522

Picture of guy.

A guy looking at the Canoa Quebrada beach.

I went down to the beach early today before it got too hot to set foot outside. The coastline was seemingly endless with perfect blue waters and almost no people enjoying it. The moon-and-star symbol of Canoa Quebrada had been etched into the cliffs along the shore in many places. It may sound sac-religious, but I actually think it was a more beautiful beach than Jericoacoara.

I watched the sunset this afternoon at 5:30 (it just keeps getting earlier), but it wasn't so spectacular because it set behind the town as is normal in Brazil. I also wanted to watch the full moon coming up but my rudimentary calculation I made a few days ago of "The moon is almost full, I bet in a few days I'll be able to see the full moon coming up at sunsets" must have been slightly off because I didn't see it until a few hours later. And I thought I had the lunar cycle figured out from being outside so much.

I found out from a vacationing guy from Sao Paulo in my hotel that there would be a luau on the beach tonight, so I decided to check it out. It wasn't very Hawaiian, but there were a bunch of people drinking and dancing on the sand. I spent the rest of the night laying in the sand, watching the moon pass overhead, and watching the tide come in (another cycle I'm busily trying to figure out).

The photo album for this entry is here.

On to Canoa Quebrada

March 3, 2007
Day 521

Marcelo, Marina, and I went to a small town near Fortaleza this morning. Marcelo used to go there on the weekends, and he reminisced about how he used to drive his jeep over the dunes with his friends. We visited a lake which a lot of people used to visit, but now prices have gotten so far out of hand, almost nobody will go there anymore. For example, renting a jetski for ten minutes costs $30. If you wanted to rent it for the day, you might as well buy a new one!

Before I left Fortaleza, I had lunch at Marcelo's. We had feshuada, a black bean sauce mixed with pork that's popular in this region, along with a delicious beef platter. Marcelo's chef has been working for the family since before he was born, so she really knows how to cook.

After saying goodbye to Marcelo and Marina, I took a bus a few hours south to Aracati, then went in a van to a small beach town called Canoa Quebrada. A room in a nice hotel cost the same amount as camping in Jericoacoara, and the town seemed quite prosperous with a pedestrian walkway in the center that was full of restaurants and bars.

One Last Night out in Fortaleza

March 2, 2007
Day 520

Picture of people.

Me, Marcelo, and Daniela.

Most of my day today was spent cleaning my tent, mattress, and clothes, and putting together the hundreds of pictures and dozens of blog entries I had fallen so far behind on writing.

I went out one last time tonight with Daniela, Marcelo, and Marina. We had a great time once again and they really made my stay in Fortaleza worthwhile.

Back to Fortaleza

March 1, 2007
Day 519

It started raining again today so there wasn't much to do but wait around my hotel. I took the bus along the same route back to Fortaleza, which was uneventful because of the rain, and took up the rest of the day.

Jericoacoara was a beautiful place, but there were way too many "cooler than you" tourists for my liking, and the remoteness of the place only served to make it difficult to access and experience. The small, remote beach village charm that Jeri probably had a decade ago is long gone now. Or maybe the fact that it rained most of the time I was there killed the atmosphere for me.

Nonstop Rain

February 28, 2007
Day 518

Picture of dune.

Sitting on the big sand dune.

The rain came early this morning. I tried walking around but I soon became drenched and my umbrella was destroyed by the accompanying strong wind. I had to go back to the hotel and wait it out. Unfortunately, it continued to rain almost all day.

While reading a book in my hammock, I met another guy staying at the same place. He said he was from Sao Paulo, the biggest city in South America. He was covered with tattoos, so I didn't go out of my way to talk to him. He started telling me about futebol (soccer) and his favorite team Santos, which was Pele's team. Then I noticed that the Poseidon tattoo on his shoulder matched the character on his shirt, which was a jersey for his team. In fact, all of his tattoos were of Santos, even the one with the team's fight song on his back, which I had previously assumed was some sort of gang-related material. This guy wasn't a gangster at all, but the most dedicated soccer fan I've ever met!

An hour before sunset, the rain finally subsided a bit. I was able to walk to the top of the dune and take in the evening air, along with half the population of Jericoacoara. The view from the top was amazing.

Tonight I met a few people and we hit the town. It turned out that Jeri was a lot bigger than I had previously realized. I walked through street after street, all made of sand of course, and passed dozens of outdoor bars filled with hundreds of people trying their best to look cooler than everybody else. Also scattered in the mix were groups of hippies trying to sell handmade jewelry and emitting strange skunk-like odors.

I was about ready to go home to my tent when I stumbled into a place that was actually playing music from Brazil. I asked around and was told that the music was called "forró" and the accompanying dance was especially popular in this part of Brazil. I started watching and was amazed at how quickly the dancing couples spun each other around and flung themselves through the air. It was quite hypnotic to watch, but I didn't dare try to join in next to the others dancing. They were so good, they could have been professionals!

Picture of boat.

A ship called hope.