Monthly Archives: December 2005

Gas Leak!

December 4, 2005
Day 67

This was a very relaxing day. I slept for about eleven hours last night. When I finally got up, I was happy to discover that there was a wireless connection available for me to use from my laptop, so I was on my computer most of the day.

After a few hours of wireless bliss, I took a walk around town. I quickly noticed that there wasn't much to do there. Calama is a mining town, so most of its residents work in the mine. People also get bussed into Calama from the entire surrounding area to work there. Most people only move to Calama to work for a few years, so there aren't many permanent residents there.

Sometime in the middle of the day, Pablo and I went to the shopping mall. He bought a few supplies for supper, but he wouldn't let me pay for them. "You're backpacking," he said. "You don't have to buy anything." After deliberating for a few minutes, he finally let me buy a bottle of wine. He was a really great host all around. I was just expecting a couch, but I got so much more.

Pablo also had to go to the hardware store. I asked him what he needed, and he informed me that he had to get some supplies to fix his gas leak. The gas tank that heats the water and powers the stove had a bad seal, so if Pablo couldn't fix it, we wouldn't be able to eat. There was also a chance that we would get blown up. It was a Sunday, so no plumbers were working. Pablo ended up spending most of the day trying to fix the problem.

Meanwhile, I met Matthieu and Julien at their hotel room. We originally met back in Peru and traveled together for awhile in Bolivia. After we split up, they worked their way to the south of Chile and back up. They fly back home from Lima in ten days. We happened to cross paths again in Calama, so we agreed to meet there. We caught up for about an hour and decided to go to the mine together tomorrow.

When I got back to Pablo's place, his roommate Carlos was fixing the gas leak. Luckily, it turned out that Carlos was a plumber in his spare time. He got it mostly fixed so we could finally cook supper.

Pablo cooked a great meal with fish and lots of vegetables. It was a great experience for me to get to know a local person and learn more about the culture here. It was also really nice to have a free place to stay for a few days. When I get back home, I'm definitely going to host travelers at my place. When I meet so many people and hear their stories, it will be like I'm traveling all over again!

Couchsurfing

December 3, 2005
Day 66

My bus to Calama left at 8:30 this morning, so I didn't get any sleep last night. The bus ride was six hours long, and I slept nearly every minute of it. When I got to Calama in the afternoon, I was still really exhausted.

Back when I was in Cusco about a month ago, a girl told me about www.couchsurfing.com. The idea of the website is that if you have a couch or bedroom, and you want to host someone who is traveling for at least a night, you can sign up and let them stay at your place. If you want to stay at someone else's place, the only stipulation is that you have to plan to host someone else at some point in your life. The hostel in Cusco where I met the girl who told me about the site was actually the first place she had to pay money to stay at.

I didn't bother trying couchsurfing in Bolivia because it was so cheap there anyway, but once I got to Chile, I figured it would be a good way to save money. The first place I found in Chile was in Calama, so this was my first couchsurfing experience. I had emailed Pablo, who lives in Calama, a few times already, and he agreed to host me tonight.

I took a taxi to Pablo's apartment when I got to Calama, not knowing what to expect. He had a really nice place with a big living room, kitchen, and balcony. He even had a spare bedroom, so I got to sleep in a real bed! I was very impressed as soon as I saw the apartment.

Pablo was feeling a little sick, so we didn't do much tonight. That's OK, though, because I needed a good night's sleep anyway. I worked on my blog a bit and went to bed early, not quite sure if I was going to visit the nearby copper mine, the only big attraction in town, tomorrow.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Zofri Shopping Mall

December 2, 2005
Day 65

After getting a late start today, I was up for some exercise. I discovered that a few decades ago, the Chilean government wanted to help the commerce in Iquique, so they created a huge tax-free shopping zone called the Zofri. It was on the other side of town, but I elected to walk there rather than take a cab.

After about half an hour of walking, I arrived at the Zofri. The mall was huge. Every electronic item imaginable was on sale there, although the prices didn't seem that great. I meandered the endless corridors for a few hours until I got bored and decided to head back. The Zofri seemed a bit overrated to me, but then again, I'm not much of a shopper, either.

We had another barbecue tonight. Everyone got steak, chicken, vegetables, and wine. It was another great meal. A few hours later, we went to Kamikaze, the biggest dance club in town. Although we got there at one in the morning, it seemed pretty quiet. There was just a guy playing the guitar and a few people watching him. Finally, at around 2:00, the guy stopped playing and the dance floor opened up. We stayed there until about 5:00. This is a very late-night culture, a far cry from Bolivia, where everyone goes to bed as soon as the sun goes down.

On the way home from the club, the first actual bad thing of my trip happened. I was in a taxi, and my camera fell out of my pocket. My pants don't have very deep pockets, so things fall out a lot, but this time I didn't notice until I was in the hostel. The hostel owner is going to call the cab company in the morning, but I'm not expecting to get it back. Too bad I have to leave right away in the morning. The Zofri Mall would come in handy for buying a new camera.

Flying Over Iquique

December 1, 2005
Day 64

I wanted to try something unique today, so I asked around and found out about paragliding. Iquique is on the ocean and near a windy hill, making it the perfect location for the sport. The owner of my hostel made a few phone calls and arranged a tandem trip for me at 5:00 in the afternoon.

I had a few hours to kill, so I took a walk downtown. As expected, there was a large central square for people to meet and congregate at. There was also a museum that featured lots of animal and human bones. I walked around a bit more and headed back to the hostel, eager to fly.

At 5:00, I was picked up and driven to the top of the hill overlooking the city. Paco, the man who would do the flying, explained how it would work. He would be behind me controlling the parachute, we would have to run off the edge of the hill to get lifted into the air, and he would do the flying. It sounded exciting, but there was too much wind for us to take off safely.

While waiting for the wind to die down, another paraglider flew over us. Paco informed me that he was the best paraglider in the world, and he started today's flight in the morning 250 KM south of Iquique! I had no idea it was possible to fly so far or with so much control.

Later, a group of five Scandinavian men showed up at the top of the hill and got ready to take off. They were part of a club that had been paragliding in the area for over a month. Iquique was truly a mecca for the sport.

Finally, after waiting on the hill for about two hours, the wind died down enough for us to take off. Leaving the ground was very easy. We jogged a few steps and suddenly, we were in the air. We circled around the area for a few minutes, then began flying toward the city. About the same time, the others took off as well. They seemed to fly dangerously close to each other, but they also flew with precision. It didn't feel dangerous because everyone in the air was very experienced.

Eventually, we flew over the city and began our descent. After we passed over the main road, we were near the beach. There were buildings, trees, and people nearby, but Paco was so good that he easily landed us in the sand between all of them. It was like landing on a pillow.

The paragliding experience was a lot of fun, but it wasn't what I had expected. I thought it would be a huge adrenaline rush from start to finish, but it was actually quite relaxing. I was a little nervous before we took off, but as soon as we were in the air, I just sat back and took in the scenery that surrounded me. I'm sure it would've been more exciting if I had been the one doing the flying, but the tandem flight was very enjoyable nonetheless.

Not much happened at the hostel tonight. Everyone was too tired from last night's festivities to do much. Tomorrow should be a lot of fun because we are planning to have another barbecue. I get the feeling that a barbecue happens every other night here.

The photo album for this entry is here.

Questions Answered, Part III

Economy:

1. What do most local people do for a living?

It seems that three out of every four people are entrepreneurs. Some have restaurants, others have general stores, still others have Internet cafes. I even met one lady who wanted to make some extra money, so she set up a grill at the door to her house and started cooking hamburgers. Other than in rich neighborhoods, almost every house has some sort of business run out of the front area, which is why everything is so available. In the US, we have residential, commercial, and industrial zones. These zones can't be combined, so it is impossible to sell, for example, eggs, bread, and milk from your living room. However, in Latin America, this is done all the time, so everything you need is within walking distance. The entrepreneurs seem to make up the middle class here.

Rich people tend to work for big companies, just like in the US. They drive to work and oftentimes live in gated communities. Poor people are farmers, housekeepers, home builders (building a house barley requires any skills because the houses are so simple here), and similar occupations. Note that when I say "rich" and "poor," I'm talking about their standards, not ours. According to our standards, almost everyone is poor.

2. Do people leave tips?

Tipping is almost never done, except in nice restaurants and on guided tours. Even when you do tip in a restaurant, it's not a standard 15% like it is in the US. Rather, you usually just give them the change. For example, if a meal for four people costs 48 boliviano's, you might just give them a fifty and tell them to keep the change. You never tip taxi drivers, bar tenders, or anyone else for that matter. I think tipping in general is only something that is done to any great extent in the US. Even in Europe, it's not common at all.

Odds and Ends:

3. What is the weather like?

The biggest factor that seems to determine the weather is the altitude. Out of the first eight weeks of my travels, I spent seven weeks above 2000 meters, six weeks above 3000 meters, and three weeks above 4000 meters. At 2000 meters, it gets pretty chilly at night, at 3000 meters, it's time to break out the sleeping bag because a few blankets won't do, and at 4000 meters, the temperature at night hovers around 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit). Go much above 4000 meters, as I have done a few times, and it stays below freezing, even during the day. If you ever go to 5000 meters, as I have for a total of about two days, the temperature is permanently below freezing. I was completely unprepared for this when I started my trip. I figured I'd be in the tropics, so it wouldn't get too cold. I was way off. I have bought a winter hat, gloves, scarf, and long sleeve shirt since leaving. When you go to a high altitude, it's going to be cold, even if you're on the equator.

4. What did you like better about Peru than Bolivia and vice versa?

Peru has a lot more archaeological sites than Bolivia, including Machu Picchu, which I think is the most amazing one in all of the Americas. Peru also has much better roads than Bolivia. The only time I road on a non-paved road in Peru was from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon. In Bolivia, where dirt and gravel roads are the norm, you should count your lucky stars if the road you are on is actually paved. On the same subject, the buses are much better in Peru. Some of the buses can be pretty bad, but if you pay just a little bit more, you can have a nice, comfortable ride, with little chance of breaking down. In Bolivia, it's impossible to get a nice bus between most cities, no matter how much money you pay. Not only that, but the buses break down and have Bolivia's much more frequently.

The main thing I like better about Bolivia is how much more adventurous it is. When you get on a bus that's supposed to take an hour, it could take anywhere from thirty minutes (if he driver has a death wish) to six hours (if you have a Bolivia or run into any road blocks or riots). Tours are often organized at the last minute, so the entire itinerary can change at a moment's notice. Small towns generally have no modern-day conveniences like electricity or running water. You just never know what's going to happen next until it happens. Bolivia is also much cheaper than Peru, which itself is a very cheap country.

Possibly the best thing I like about Bolivia over Peru is the quality of the napkins. In Peru, the napkins are tiny little pieces of paper, barely visible to the naked eye. If you have more than one micro liter of material to clean from your face, they are completely useless. Not only that, but it takes a lot of begging and pleading to get a second one. However, in Bolivia, the napkins are almost as good as the ones in the USA. It's like when Peru opened their napkin factory, they were too lazy to manufacture their own napkins, so they just bought a bunch from Bolivia and started shredding them up.

5. What's the deal with coca leaves?

I often talk about drinking mate de coca or sucking on coca leaves. Some of you probably think I'm a drug addict now. The thing is, when Americans hear the word "coca," they immediately think "cocaine." While coca leaves can eventually be combined with other chemicals and reformulated to make cocaine, the leaves themselves are a far cry from the drug.

Coca leaves have many uses: they help with altitude sickness, they can be used to suppress one's appetite, and they can be combined with water to make a tasty beverage to share with your friends. This is why people use them so often when trekking through the mountains, working in the mines, and socializing on a Friday afternoon. Just about the only thing they don't do is get you high.

It seems to me that Americans think coca leaves are cocaine because the government wants them to think that way. Americans use about half the world's supply of cocaine, so the government has tried to eradicate the problem at its source. Countries like Bolivia grow lots of coca leaves, so the American government pays the Bolivians to destroy their crops. Of course, that just makes the problem worse because the Bolivians see that growing and destroying coca crops will make them big money, and more crops pop up than there previously were. Then, the worst thing happens: Bolivians think, "Wow, I was just selling these leaves to the local people for next to nothing, but if I can figure out how to make them into cocaine, I can make a lot more money." Because of this, the "war on drugs" that the American government has started has not only not fixed the problem, but it's made it worse, not just in the US, but in other countries such as Bolivia as well. Getting Americans to stop using so many drugs, a solution that might actually work, is something the government hasn't been successful at. So no, I'm not on cocaine, and coca leaves actually taste pretty good when mixed with a little sugar.

6. Does the sky look different there?

Thanks, Paul! You were the first person to ask me that question. I have been blown away by how different the sky is here. When I started my trip, I was near the equator, so the sun moved directly overhead during the day. My whole life, the sun was always in the south at around noon; here, it's right over me. In fact, if I look down and see that I have no shadow, I know it's noon. The days don't get much longer or shorter throughout the year, either. There are about twelve hours of daylight every day, year round.

The sky looks different at night, too. I'm not an expert at this, but a few of the constellations from the northern hemisphere, such as Orion, are still visible here. However, most of them, including the Big Dipper, can't be seen. Instead, the most famous constellation in the southern hemisphere is the Southern Cross, which isn't visible from home. Another big difference is that the moon fills in differently here. In the north, the crescent moon is on the side, but here, it's on the bottom.

It seems that most people don't notice these things, so when I point them out to other travelers, they just give me a blank stare like I'm crazy, especially if they're Australian. Still, now that I know that at least one person cares, I'll put it here.

7. Have you thought in Spanish?

Yes, that happens more and more often now. I think in Spanish, I dream in Spanish, and sometimes, I even talk in Spanish to people I know only understand English. Still, my Spanish isn't perfect. I thought it was coming along quite well until I got to Chile, where the dialect is so different, it might as well be its own language. It's also not a good idea to stay in a hostel where everyone speaks English if you want to learn Spanish. Or write your blog in English. For these reasons, I'll probably never be completely fluent in Spanish, even after traveling for a year through Latin America.

8. What's up with all of these people you keep meeting?

I meet people from across the globe almost ever day here. A few of them are students at nearby universities, some are on holiday for month or so, others just finished college and are traveling for as long as they can before needing to get a job, and still others are people like me who saved money and quit their jobs.

People who travel are of a very wide range of ages. The youngest person I have met was 20, and the oldest was 70. The majority of travelers are in their 20's, but a lot of older people travel, too. The strange thing is that nobody seems to care how old other people are. I guess normally, being the same age as someone else is the main thing people have in common to break the ice, but here, it's sharing the experiences of traveling, so age doesn't matter as much. In fact, the most interesting people I have met have been those who were decades older than me and had been all around the world.

The people I meet are generally from Western Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada, but I also meet a few from Asia and other South American countries as well. It's not unusual for me to hear people speaking Spanish, English, French, German, and Australian on any given day. The only people I don't meet very often are fellow Americans, which brings up another interesting question...

9. Why don't more Americans travel?

I think there are several reasons why Americans don't travel more often, the biggest being the lack of vacation time in the US. In Europe, most people get at least a month of vacation every year, and having six to eight weeks off is not uncommon. In the US, two weeks is the standard. In fact, most people want to take off the last week of the year to spend the holidays with their families, so that only leaves one more week for the entire year to travel somewhere. You can't go to South America in a week. That's not even enough time to get to know a big city, let alone a country or an entire continent. So, most Americans never venture too far from home.

Another reason Americans don't leave the country often is because it is so big and there is so much to see there. New York City, San Francisco, Miami, the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park, Alaska, and Hawaii are just a few of the major tourist destinations that our country has. Not only that, but it's easy to get there. Other than Alaska and Hawaii, Americans can drive there, and they don't need to worry about getting a passport or visa, learning another language, or dealing with culture shock. With only week a year to travel somewhere, you could easily spend your whole life just getting to know the United States.

Finally, Americans don't travel much because of the live-to-work culture that exists there. Amazingly, one out of every three paid vacation days in the US doesn't even get used. People are worried that if they leave the office, they'll fall behind with their jobs. I hate to say it, but they're right. Back when I had a job, whenever I went away for a week, I spent my entire first day back answering emails. Then I spent the rest of the week catching up with all of the work I missed so I could still make my deadlines. It's even common for Americans to take their laptops with them on vacation so they can check their email when they are gone. That doesn't sound like a vacation at all. It's actually more stressful to leave the office for a week than to stay, so a lot of people choose to stay and not to use their vacation time.

I even tried to take a leave of absence from my job, but was denied. I was told that it wasn't in the company's best interest. Here I was, a talented young software engineer who wanted to take some time off and broaden his horizons, and it somehow wasn't in their best interest. What did they have to lose? I wasn't asking for money. It only would've cost them a few dollars to maintain me in their records. Instead, they lost me forever. When I get back, I'm going to have countless business contacts from all over the world, and I'll have a deep understanding of Latin American business and culture. The experience and knowledge I will have gained will translate into major earning potential for myself and whoever I end up working for. The worst thing is, if I had said that I was burned out from all of the stress of my job (which would've been a lie), I easily would've gotten a leave of absence. Companies in America are used to hearing that they have worked their employees to the brink of insanity. They are not used to hearing that someone who works for them might actually want to have a life outside of work. (Sorry for the rant.)

10. Why didn't you buy a Round-The-World ticket?

Of the people I meet who are traveling for more than a few months, most have round-the-world (RTW) tickets. These tickets usually can be purchased for around $2000 and allow you to fly to four or five continents and take several flights within each of the continents. They are fairly flexible in the dates you can fly. You just have to get to a city a few days beforehand, let the airline know that you want to fly, and they'll fit you on a flight that still has room. The standard length for an RTW ticket is a year, but some people go for as few as six months or as many as sixteen.

I thought about buying an RTW ticket, but decided against it because I didn't want to be in too much of a hurry. You're probably laughing now and thinking that you could easily see everything in the world in a year without being in a hurry. Well, you can't. In fact, our lifespans aren't long enough to see everything. You have to pick and choose your destinations, RTW ticket or not.

The thing is, people with RTW tickets really seem to be in a hurry. They never want to take a day off and just relax because it would be a waste of time. They won't ride buses during the day for more than a few hours because they don't want to waste that day. I barely sleep when on overnight buses and end up walking around like a zombie the whole next day because I'm too tired, so I don't mind so much taking the bus during the day. I can easily travel for two or three weeks while moving fast and not sleeping much, but beyond that, I crash. I don't enjoy having to move so fast.

The thing that finally told me that an RTW ticket wasn't for me was the fact that I wanted to see the whole continent. People with RTW tickets generally only get to spend three months or so in South America, so they only see three or four countries, and only travel around the big cities because they have to catch another flight every few weeks. I wanted to see Machu Picchu, Ushuia, Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires, etc, and there's no way I could have seen all of them on a RTW ticket.

Of course, the advantage of having an RTW ticket is that you get to see much more of the world, whereas I'm only going to get to see one continent. Years from now, I'll have lots of stories about traveling for a year, but I sill won't have been to Australia, Asia, or Africa. If you're thinking about buying an RTW ticket, the biggest question you have to ask yourself is "Do I want breadth or depth?"

Finally a Fun Hostel

November 30, 2005
Day 63

Today I took a bus to Iquique, which is about four hours by bus south of Arica on the coast. After doing some asking around at the bus station, I was able to find a great hostel that lots of backpackers stay at. This was a good change of pace for me because for the last two weeks or so, I've been in places with very few tourists, so I haven't met many people.

Iquique is a lot like Arica only bigger and even more laid-back. People here seem to sleep and surf all day and party all night. There area even a couple of guys here who started in Las Angeles eight months ago and have been surfing down the coast ever since. Everyone walks around in sandals and board shorts. I haven't worn shorts since I left, and I have barely worn my sandals other than when taking a shower. The hostel is about a block from the beach, a great location right in the middle of a beautiful city.

Tonight, some people at the hostel cooked a barbecue. We had steaks, sausages, potato salad, and lots of red wine. It was probably the best meal I have had on my trip. Everyone was in a very festive mood afterwards, so we hit a few places on the town. The only thing this hostel doesn't offer is a quiet place to sleep. Still, it's good to take some time off from the nonstop cultural experiences and just flat out have a good time every now and then.

Viewing the Whole City

November 29, 2005
Day 62

Today I took a walk up to the Morro of Arica, a huge hill that overlooks the whole city. The walk up was very steep, but, being at sea level, it wasn't very difficult. I might even dare to say that it was enjoyable.

At the top of the hill was a war museum. Lots of weapons and clothing from the 1800's were on display. Chile took the coastal land from Bolivia in the war of El Pacifico, turning Bolivia into a landlocked nation, and the poorest nation in the continent at that. Of course, the Chileans viewed things a bit differently. The museum commemorated the troops in their bravery in winning the battle.

The entire city was visible from the top of the hill. I sat down for awhile on top was mesmerized by the shipyard. A forklift type vehicle kept moving around, picking up loads for semis, and putting them onto trailers. I could hear the whole thing as if I were right next to it. Before I knew it, I was there half an hour.

Not much was going on at night because it was a Tuesday, so I just walked around the city for awhile. Tomorrow I'll head south for a few hours to Iquique, another coastal Chilean city.

The photo album for this entry is here.